Tea in Pembroke: An immersive experience at a 100-year-old tea plantation in Coonoor

As dusk settles over the hills in The Nilgiris, the century-old tea bushes at Pembroke tea estate glow in a golden light. After a 30-minute drive from Coonoor along scenic winding roads past Manjacombai, I am at Pembroke Villa enjoying tea, crunchy vegetable pakoras, and stunning views. Amidst the exotic blooms at the garden, a pair of Japanese cherry blossom trees stand tall showing off abundant pale pink flowers.

“My father, VE Ramesh, founder of Pembroke Group is a passionate gardener,” says Rahul Vairavan, managing partner of the group, as we tour the tea garden. “He believes that any place is lively when there is greenery, laughter and conversations. That’s how the family estate evolved into offering an immersive Nilgiris experience complete with a visit to our tea factory.” A guided tour takes visitors through every stage of tea production, from plucking to processing and witnessing the process from leaf to cup.

Dip teas including Kashmiri kahwa with saffron extract, paan, turmeric-cinnamon blends, signature rose cardamom, mint, berry blush and detox green teas
| Photo Credit:
K Jeshi

The tea plantation, spread across several acres, dates back to 1924, making them third-generation planters. “Our ancestors had plantations in Malaysia, Coonoor, Coorg, and rubber estates in Kailash. This was originally a 1000-acre property split among families. My husband Ramesh retained the estate and plantation,” recalls Muthu Ramesh, master tea blender at the group. The family took over the property in 1986, renovated and opened it as a homestay in 2016. The century-old bungalow, a three-bedroom residence is now a five-room property with three rooms inside the main house, and two independent cottages outside. The bungalow can accommodate up to 20 guests. Named Pembroke, inspired by Pembrokeshire in Wales, it still retains its colonial charm of concrete roofing, layered with tin sheets beneath old tiles, and sturdy walls built with locally sourced materials that keep the house cool in summer and warm in winter. Classic, full-length French windows open to the lawns and bonfires light up the lawn at night. Rooms are named after Pembroke Welsh corgi, a preferred breed of Queen Elizabeth II, who owned more than 30 during her reign, Port Pembroke, HMS Pembroke to name a few. “We didn’t want to disturb the original architecture,” says Rahul, adding that they enhanced it with modern amenities.

The bungalow retains its colonial charm of concrete roofing layered with tin sheets beneath old tiles, and sturdy walls built with locally sourced materials that keep the house cool in summer and warm in winter
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement

At first, there was no internet. “We wanted people to truly unwind,” says V Shivashree, who heads hospitality. Over time, changes were made organically. Post-pandemic, guests began working remotely from the hills, prompting the addition of Wi-Fi. A television followed, largely because visitors wanted to watch IPL matches together in the evenings.

Nearly 10,000 kilos of freshly plucked green leaves gets transformed as 2500 kilos of tea every day at the factory
| Photo Credit:
K Jeshi

Adventure activities such as rappelling, rock climbing and high-rope walk are organised on request in collaboration with NALS that operates adventure-based learning at the property.

Rahul, after returning from the UK in 2019, determined to create an identity of his own, launched Varake tea, named after a local deity worshipped by hill communities, in Premium and Assam tea variants. He says, “I realised that tea from here was reaching Buckingham Palace. But our own name wasn’t visible.”

A section of the plantation has 100-year-old tea bushes
| Photo Credit:
K Jeshi

After a hearty lunch of flavourful biryani, Muthu, Rahul’s mother, lines up her exotic dip teas for tasting. There is Kashmiri kahwa with saffron extract, paan made with betel leaves from her own farm, turmeric-cinnamon blends, signature rose cardamom, mint, berry blush and detox green teas. When Varake began as a blending unit in Coimbatore, initially selling black and green teas, Muthu drawing from her 17-year background in the fitness industry, experimented with blends inspired by Indian spices. She sources cardamom from Cumbum, and also uses dried ginger, lemongrass, and blue pea flowers known for antioxidant properties. Lakshmi Priya R, head of communications, says a strong online presence turned the spotlight on premium dip teas. “As there are no preservatives, we make in small batches with a shelf life of six months. We keep adding seasonal flavours. In summer, chilly mango was a big hit.”

Food is largely home-style preparation
| Photo Credit:
K Jeshi

Unexpectedly, rose cardamom reached Pod Nosem in Krakow, Poland, a Michelin-recognised hotel through a friend. Says Muthu, “Chef Nicholas invited me to showcase our flavoured teas. Our masala chai, served with milk, evoked nostalgia among Polish guests familiar with Russian-style milk tea traditions.”

A short drive from the villa takes us to the family’s tea factory, a 60-year-old facility that runs like clockwork. Once inside, an intense, raw smell of freshly crushed tea leaves floods the senses while the humming of the machines fills the air. Every day, nearly 10,000 kilos of freshly plucked green leaves arrive from estates and small growers. The leaves plucked in the morning are processed within 24 hours and transformed into tea. Freshly harvested tea leaves go through a withering process, reducing their moisture content to below 70 percent. “The withered leaves are passed through rollers that break them down and rupture the cell walls. This enhances oxidation and intensifies the tea’s flavor, an essential step for achieving bold taste,” explains Rahul adding that the crushed leaves go through even fermentation before shaped into pellets. About 2,500 kilos of tea emerges daily from 10,000 kilos of leaves at the factory.

“Production has to restart within 30 minutes if there’s a snag,” he cautions adding that Varake is blend with teas from all over India to retain consistency in taste, flavour and texture. “It is available online and we have distributors across the South,” he adds. As I sip the fresh, aromatic brew, mist shrouds the hills at sunset, a cue for yet another cup of the refreshing tea.

To know more on tea trails and stays, call 7200914494 or visit @pembroke_villa on Instagram

Published – March 03, 2026 04:17 pm IST