Martinis and memories in focus at Upstairs at Indian Accent

The Ghazipur flower market was fragrant with the sweet smell of roses and marigolds. Some distance from there, we stopped for a quick bite of Lajpat Nagar’s famous momos and from there, towards Jama Masjid in Old Delhi to taste the iconic fried chicken. And since we were in the vicinity, decadent kulfi falooda from Chandni Chowk was a given.

If this sounds like we are on a food tour through some of Delhi’s most famous bazaars, you probably will not be very far off from the mark. At the aptly named Upstairs at Indian Accent, the new cocktail bar by the progressive Indian restaurant which can be accessed from a grand carpeted staircase on the ground floor, the menu takes their patrons through some of the capital’s most vibrant markets. “For Upstairs, we built the food menu around flavours inspired by Delhi’s vibrant markets, and the cocktails were designed to seamlessly enhance that experience,” says Varun Sharma, head of Bars, EHV International. Expect Indian flavours, nostalgic beverages, and familiar ingredients such as lemon pickle, paan, tea, coffee, and kokum, among others.

The showstopper at the centre of the intimate 36-seater is an elegant bar, with designer Sabyasachi’s wallpaper and upholstery enhancing the sophisticated ambiance. On most nights, jazz vocalist Alyse Pascoe’s soothing, melodic voice is there to keep you company with popular songs.      

Jhol momo
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement

Considering this is not only the much-rewarded Indian Accent’s first cocktail bar in its 15 years, but also EVH International’s (which also operates Comorin, Hosa, Fireback, Drift, and Chor Bizarre) first bar — expectations are high. For Varun , who has been associated with the company for many years, this was an opportunity to make the most of. His aim — to create cocktails that complemented and elevated the legacy of Indian Accent. He did so, by merging current global trends with the soul of the Indian restaurant.

The martini trolley with six martinis on offer becomes his playground, letting him play with nostalgia and flavours. Take the Desi Dirty Martini, for instance. The gin-infused drink gets its tangy notes from lemon-infused vermouth and lemon pickle brine. Garnished with an olive stuffed with cheese and mashed potatoes, it is a hark back to hot aloo parathas served with nimbu achaar. The Konkan Style French Martini comes with a kokum Chambord instead of the traditional raspberries or blackberries, garnished with gooseberry foam, while the balanced and refreshing Fennel & Tequila Martini with fennel-infused tequila, grapefruit vermouth, and a hint of star anise and mishri, reminds my friend of “home”, making Sharma beam with pride.

Kokum Libre
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement

This was exactly what he had hoped for. The other cocktails on their menu, from the smoky whisky-based Mango-Ginger Penicillin to the spirit-forward Paan Negroni with rose-gulkand vermouth, bring to the fore his mastery over balancing ingredients and flavours.

While the drinks have their roots in Indian spirit, Sharma uses a number of modern techniques including clarification, sous-vide, and N₂O pressure infusions, but only when they genuinely add value. “It isn’t important or meaningful to batch or clarify every cocktail. The technique should support the drink, not overshadow it,” he says.

The food menu by Head Chef Hitesh Lohat is designed to elevate the drinks but the Delhi-market inspired dishes manage to hold their own. With Pascoe crooning ‘Fly me to the Moon’ in her velvety voice in the background, he lays down the tart and crunchy flower and green leaf chaat, his take on the palak-patta chaat, inspired by the Ghazipur Flower Market.

White truffle kheer
| Photo Credit:
Special Arrangement

The kebab sando evokes Hitesh’s memories of growing up in Karol Bagh and of an unnamed shop where he tasted the best kebab sandwiches. Let us just say, he could not have paid a better tribute to it than this juicy shokupan sando with a Japanese twist. From a homage to Bengali Market’s kathi rolls to an ode to Humayun Pur’s Northeast community with braised pork belly with dalle chilli and timur, there is enough memory and material, especially for those who have grown up relishing these dishes in the capital.

There are also three variants of kulchas, and a selection of desserts such as kulfi falooda kakigori and white truffle kheer and liqueur ice creams in flavours such as cognac and honey vanilla, spiced scotch and honey and Coorg coffee, rum and kahlua.

At Indian Accent, they certainly know how to amp up the dining – and now, drinking – experience. 

Upstairs is at The Lodhi Hotel, Lodhi Road, New Delhi. A meal for two costs ₹4,800 exclusive of taxes. Open from 7pm to 1am. For reservations call 9205747968.

Published – January 08, 2026 03:08 pm IST