Idlis in Manhattan? Kidilum is betting big on Kerala cuisine in New York

Kidilum has the audacity to serve idlis on one of the highest rents in the world. 

This Kerala restaurant, planted in the heart of Manhattan, thumbs its nose at trend-chasing menus and the butter chicken clichés of Lexington Avenue’s Curry Hill.

Set in the coveted stretch between Flatiron and NoMad, the  74-seater — opened this month — is helmed by Kerala-born Chef Vinu Raveendran. It is the latest project from Hungry Trio, the hospitality group led by Sammeer Raajpal and mother-son duo Archana and Sidharth Sharma, whose portfolio includes Aarzu Indian Bistro, Ramen Nagomi and Esquina No. 525.  

Kerala-born Chef Vinu Raveendran

I drop by before the official launch and quickly see where that confidence comes from. The team has been handpicked from all over the world, relying on a network built on reputation and friendship. Now, they are having fun.  

And suddenly, so am I. 

At the bar, head bartender Harish Subramanian — formerly of The Bombay Canteen and Papa’s — greets me with a high-five. In the kitchen, Raveendran, who has worked at the two-Michelin-starred Mugaritz in San Sebastián and Carnival by Trèsind in Dubai, operates with quick, quiet efficiency, handing us small brass bowls of fluffy podi idlis set in whipped coconut chutney.  

As Harish shakes up martinis laced with gin, vetiver and curry leaf oil, in proper Mallu tradition, we knock back cold heady glasses of kallu. Their supplier, George Mathew, who has found an innovative way to package toddy with his boutique brand CocoKallu, sits beside me and sighs as he tastes the idli, saying “Now, I miss my mother.” 

Paal Curry, prawns simmered with coconut, ginger, and black pepper, is a tribute to
Kerala’s backwater cooking

I may be sitting on a barstool in Manhattan, but when I close my eyes, I could be on a veranda in Kerala: the laughter, the easy slide between Malayalam and English, and that almost luminous scent of vetiver. 

The team hopes Manhattan feels the same way.  

Their open kitchen, unusual for an Indian restaurant in New York, flanked by a spice-grinding room, makes it clear that they are unapologetic about the scent of curry that will inevitably perfume the air. “Kerala cuisine has rhythm, heat, aroma, sound. Our kitchen allows guests to experience that intensity first-hand,” says Vinu.  

Kidilum has an open kitchen, unusual for an Indian restaurant in New York, so diners can participate in the theatre of cooking

He admits that choosing Manhattan was bold. “Especially at these rents! But this is where culture, ambition, and diversity intersect. If we want Kerala cuisine to stand confidently on the world map, it has to stand where the world is watching.”  

Attu chops, made with Lamb, black pepper sauce and plum chutney

While Vinu’s modern training helps him refine technique and presentation, the soul of Kidilum comes from Kerala. Despite the modern technique and plating, flavours are hauntingly familiar. Tapioca cutlets are served with beetroot reduction, and lamb chops with a black pepper sauce and plum chutney. We lunch on pollichadhu, prawns roasted in banana leaves and tangy Alleppey fish curry made with barramundi. It is served with a steaming bowl of Kerala red rice, and soft kallu dosas. 

The meal begins with complimentary podi idli served with coconut chutney, tomato and curry leaf oil

Though Vinu’s favourite meal is a simple rice, fish fry and thoran, his menu draws inspiration from across Kerala: from coastal stir-fried crab meat in dark roasted coconut finished with fennel pollen, to slow braised pork vindaloo, drawing from Kerala’s Portuguese influences. “Hyper regional cuisine is not a risk in New York, it’s a strength. The city respects authenticity” says Vinu, adding, “We’re not trying to simplify Kerala to make it easier. We’re inviting people to discover it. And in a city like this, discovery is everything.” 

Over filter coffee martinis — sweet, dark and bracing — we survey the restaurant all set to welcome its first wave of guests. Vinu is calm as they launch in the most competitive city in the world. He smiles as he explains why: “Sometimes, if a dream is strong enough, you have to be brave with it.” 

Kidilum’s bar program uses South Indian spices and ingredients sourced from local farms

Kidilum is at 31 W 21st Street, New York, NY 10010, United States. Open from Tuesday-Monday from 5pm to 10pm. 

Published – March 27, 2026 08:45 am IST