Bangkok to Krabi: A luxury Thailand itinerary beyond the tourist trail

A day in Bangkok

There is something in Bangkok for everybody. If I didn’t believe this before, I certainly found new faith in the promise when I found myself in a quiet time-capsuled corner of Thonburi district, beyond the glamour of the city’s luxuries and the Wat Aun-esque grandeur, offering soy chunks on a stick to hungry turtles. Featuring a small pond, a manmade mountain (meant to symbolise Mount Meru of Buddhist and Hindu mythology), a sprinkling of stupas and a collection of exotic plants, the Khao Mor (The Turtle Garden) has served as a serene retreat for nearly 200 years, a stone’s throw away from Wat Prayun.

Wat Prayun
| Photo Credit:
The Peninsula Bangkok

The unassuming temple complex features a Lankan-style chedi (stupa) that has stood the test of time, braving Second World War bombings, a break-in, and the threat of collapse. Engineers went to work to reinforce the building’s bones after a 2006 survey found that the tower was leaning by nearly a metre towards the Chao Phraya River. By the time the work was done, the chedi had revealed two hidden crypts filled with long-forgotten relics, narrates Mu, our guide and historian. Today, a museum alongside the shrine tells the fascinating tales of its survival and houses the treasures it has gathered along the way.

A short walk away is the Guan Yu Shrine, one of Bangkok’s oldest Chinese shrines, an 18th Century creation by the Hokkien immigrants from China. Here, locals leave behind contract papers to seek good luck for their business ventures. This sits adjacent to the Princess Mother Memorial Park, created in honour of former King Bhumibol’s mother; today, it is a place for people to practice tai chi, host workshops, and play tag. This is just a few steps away from Goowatin Islam Mosque, a warehouse-like structure with a minaret in the Indian-Islamic style of architecture, built by a group of Indian traders (the Nanas) whose descendants still hold sway in the community today. All testament to the quiet ways in which Thailand continues to be a potpourri of cultures and communities — an enduring legacy of its Siam days.

Contract documents presented to Guan Yu at the shrine in Thonburi, Bangkok.
| Photo Credit:
Kannalmozhi Kabilan

This insight into Thonburi’s cultural landscape was courtesy of the two-hour walking tour put together by The Peninsula Bangkok. Perched on the banks of the Chao Phraya River, The Peninsula offers not just the luxuries of a global hospitality giant, but several thoughtfully curated guest experiences that allow for the exploration of the local milieu.

And that is how, early in the morning, I got to line up at the small shrine by the hotel’s driveway along with a couple of its staff and partake in the Tak Bat Alms Giving ceremony, a 14th Century tradition that still holds significance in the lives of Thais. Food — often sticky rice and fruits — is prepared afresh and offered in quiet reverence to Buddhist monks making their way back to the monasteries.

That is also how, in a sunlit, riverfront patio, I got to brew my own kombucha (flavoured with peach tea) with the guidance of The Peninsula’s own mixologist (my batch, unfortunately, didn’t survive the flight home).

As for the luxuries, The Peninsula lives up to its reputation for Thai elegance amid global modernity. Its room and suites, right from the deluxe room to The Peninsula Suite, come with breathtaking views of the Chao Phraya River and the city beyond. Silk furnishings, teak floors, and marble bathrooms tastefully round-out the serene ambience of this riverside retreat. Through a carefully curated line-up of bespoke experiences — from custom tea blending and artisanal floral design to chocolate making and exclusive dining concepts — the hotel has steadily evolved into one of the region’s most sought-after wedding destinations as well.

And when you can complete your opulent Bangkok experience with a true-blue Thai 7-Eleven right outside the gate of The Peninsula, what more could you ask for!

Escape to Krabi

Walking down a pathway surrounded by trees and flowering bushes, within the oasis of a White Lotus-esque seaside resort, nestled against craggy cliffs, I was stopped short by the sight of a native resident. Unlike the comically ravenous turtles of the Bangkok garden, here it was a rather intimidating monitor lizard, ominously flicking its forked tongue in and out as it too stopped to take note of this intruder.

A bird’s eye view of Rayavadee
| Photo Credit:
Rayavadee Krabi

While turtles are considered sacred in Buddhism and are hence seen as symbols of endurance and strength, monitors have a rather negative reputation. It was when conservation efforts took centrestage that the tide turned for these animals. Today, they are an ubiquitous presence in Thailand — lounging in city canals and parks, and claiming wild spaces in island towns. In Krabi, they are a testament to how much conservation is a central tenet of tourism, with luxury resorts quietly mushrooming amid the natural landscape without compromising it.

Rayavadee Krabi, which hosted my encounter with the monitor (which had decided I wasn’t much of a threat and walked away), is no exception. The resort is a garland of duplex pavilions, villas, restaurants and entertainment spaces spread across 26 acres of a coconut plantation. The mushroom-topped pavilions’ circular structure, the earthy colours employed across the board, the wood-bamboo-thatched roof style of Nature-inspired decor, all seem to be designed with one thing in mind — blend in with the natural surroundings, offering a truly immersive island experience.

Circular pavilions at Rayavadee.
| Photo Credit:
Rayavadee Krabi

An impressive manifestation of this conscientious architecture is perhaps Rayavadee’s crown jewel — The Grotto. The signature restaurant serving up dreamy cocktails and an exquisite Mediterranean-inspired fare is set in a deep, naturally formed cave on a cliff face. Featuring solid wood tables and bamboo-lined chairs anchored into the beach sand floor, the restaurant — enveloped by the mountain itself and the trees in the midst — offers an unforgettable view of Phranang beach, making it the perfect spot for memorable sunsets.

Such exercises in conservation are a collective effort of the community, says the resort’s manager. “Tourism is the main income for us. There are many hotels on Railay beach (one of the three beaches flanking Rayavadee), and we all agreed on the same thing. To protect this land for our next generation,” he says. Towards this end, all the beaches remain accessible to the general public, and the community comes together to keep them clean. Since the pandemic, some restrictions on long boats have been put in place to protect the waters, and the life in them, he says.

It is the fruits of this labour that I got to benefit from when island hopping off Railay beach. From the Ko Poda Island to the peculiarly shaped Chicken Island, white sand beaches and aqua blue waters awaited. The crystal clear water around Ko Poda made it the best place for some light snorkelling and swimming with the fishes. I was, however, a couple of days too early for Thale Waek — a phenomenon where a white sand dune emerges during low tide and connects three little islands (Ko Kai, Ko Thap, and Ko Mo), a window of whimsy in the great blue beyond.

Chicken Island (Koh Gai)
| Photo Credit:
Kannalmozhi Kabilan

For those not faint of heart, Krabi has more adventurous delights — like rock climbing along Railay beach’s limestone cliffs, or kayaking amid a community forest in the Khlong Nam Sai freshwater canal.

Krabi has its own wats, but you might want to visit the shrine for Phranan, an Indian princess. Legend has it that this princess worshipped Shiva in a cave off Phranang beach, the very dark and moldy cave that now houses a doll-like figurine and the many phallic offerings people leave for her.

Off Nammao beach is a quintessential little market, with all kinds of seafood fare and many a marijuana bar.

Mango sticky rice
| Photo Credit:
Kannalmozhi Kabilan

Within the cosy confines of Rayavadee, amid monitor encounters, there is the magnificent infinity pool and an all-inclusive spa that will let you make the best of your island escape. While there is plenty of global cuisine on offer, there is something about having mango sticky rice, served in style, right in Thailand. The taste will linger long after you’ve left the country behind.

The writer was in Thailand at the invitation of the Thailand Tourism Authority