Beyond croissants: Puducherry’s Abov highlights Vietnamese, Sri Lankan and Malaysian flavours

I travelled to Puducherry for what might be one of the best pan-Asian meals I have had in a while. At Abov — a relatively new rooftop restaurant at The Residency Towers, I am reminded that the city’s food scene is now stretching beyond its famed boulangeries. 

The town is often reduced to its French Quarters, now more of an Instagram backdrop, and its parade of flaky croissants, buttery Danishes and éclairs that feel almost ritualistic. Yet outside this familiar pastry circuit, newer restaurants are steadily expanding its palate. 

Edamame curried soup
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SPECIAL ARRANGEMENT

Enter Abov, and you have to temper expectations of a cinematic, sea-facing view, given its location amid the bustling market lanes of Anna Salai. That said, the cool evening breeze and the food more than make up for what the setting lacks. We start with hibiscus tea, a warm prelude to the meals ahead. First up, we try Sri Lankan edamame curried soup, the tender edamame bits paired well with the coconut-heavy broth.

The menu travels through Malaysia, Myanmar, Vietnam, Burma and Sri Lanka — a deliberate choice, says Chef Vivek. “You can find sushi and dim sum almost everywhere now. We felt there was a gap in Vietnamese, Sri Lankan, and Malaysian cuisine, especially in Puducherry. Those flavours aren’t easily available here, and we wanted to introduce something different to the city’s palate.” 

The lephet thoke or Burmese pickled tea leaf salad is a testament to that. Shredded cabbage is mixed with crunchy fried lentils, fermented tea leaves, roasted quinoa and sesame seeds. Fermented tea leaves in a salad may sound unusual at first, but here they lend a gentle, earthy depth that rounds out the dish rather than overpowering it. 

Next up, we try ivy gourd dim sum — a vegetable I hated as a child. Despite my initial scepticism, I end up polishing off a plate in no time. The filling is mashed to a soft, almost creamy consistency; then tucked inside a dumpling and doused with chilli oil. We also try lobster and prawn dim sum, which are more familiar. In a menu with more distinctive dishes, this can be an easy skip.

The beverage menu offers a mix of familiar classic cocktails and house signatures. From the latter, the chef insists on the matcha clarified cocktail, which brings together, amongst other things, gin, dry martini, pineapple juice, matcha, and yoghurt-dehydrated banana. A long list of ingredients that arrives as a clear-looking drink, lightly fruity in taste with a gentle hint of matcha at the end. 

Beef rendang, Sri Lankan ambul thiyal, and prawn murungakkai curry arrive for the mains, all paired with white rice. The beef rendang is tender and flavourful in every bite, a result of slow cooking for over six hours. The prawn curry is hearty and coconutty, which asks for multiple servings. I ditch the cutlery and dig in with my hands, “the only way to get the most of it,” laughs the chef. 

Jasmine pana cotta
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SPECIAL ARRANGEMENT

Dessert arrives as a work of art: Jasmine panna cotta, served with a side of chardonnay and lemongrass sorbet. Here, the pana cotta is made with camel milk, which lends a creamy, dense texture, while the tart sorbet cuts through the sweetness, keeping each spoonful balanced. There are other options like matcha cheesecake, chocolate mousse, hazelnut tart, and more — all bookmarked for our next trip. 

₹3,500 for two (including alcohol). 388, Anna Salai, Subbarayapillai Chathiram. For more details, call  9600055635

Published – March 17, 2026 02:10 pm IST