Behind the crumbling walls of Bihar’s Balirajgarh Fort, a tale of monumental neglect

The ruins of Balirajgarh in Madhubani district of Bihar echo with the mooing of cattle and squeaking of pigs. If that sounds odd for a centrally protected historical site, the unmistakable stench of human and animal excreta is enough to force visitors to back off – something that the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) wouldn’t be very proud of.

The monumental neglect by the main agency for protection of cultural heritage in India, which recently granted fresh approval for excavation at the site, has by now become part of the popular lore in Balirajgarh.

The fresh sanction though has rekindled hopes that the buried layers of Mithila’s early urban civilisation will finally be explored in depth.

The approval, issued by the ASI on February 26, is valid for a year and authorises the agency’s Patna Circle to undertake excavation at the site, officially listed as the ‘Remains of Ancient Fort of Garh’. Locally known as ‘Raja Bali Ka Garh’, the site was first identified in 1884 by George Abraham Grierson, the then Madhubani Sub-Divisional Magistrate.

Locally known as ‘Raja Bali Ka Garh’, the site was first identified in 1884 by George Abraham Grierson, the then Madhubani Sub-Divisional Magistrate.
| Photo Credit:
R.V. Moorthy

Three excavations

Located some 35 km from the district headquarters of Madhubani and about 260 km from north of Patna, the site, spread over 122.31 acres, was excavated for the first time in 1962-63. An excavation by the Bihar State Archaeology Directorate in 1972-73 revealed significant historical structural and cultural remains belonging to the Maurya, Sunga, Kushan, Gupta and Pala periods. The last digging was done in 2013-14 by the ASI, but abandoned midway in 2014 with officials citing reasons like “environmental constraints and a high water table making further digging difficult”.

After the February 26 ASI approval, Rajya Sabha member Sanjay Kumar Jha, who is also chairman of the Parliamentary Standing Committee on Transport, Tourism and Culture, said he would ensure that the excavation this time is carried through to its “logical conclusion”.

“Balirajgarh holds immense historical significance for Mithila and the country. The excavation must be scientific, systematic and comprehensive,” Mr. Jha said, adding that he has taken up the matter with the Union Ministry of Culture and senior ASI officials.

Over the years, the abandonment of fresh excavations sparked a tussle between the State government and the ASI. Chief Minister Nitish Kumar has on several occasions criticised the ASI for its negligent attitude towards Bihar.

Bihar Tourism, Art, Culture and Youth Minister Arun Shankar Prasad, who is an MLA from Khajauli constituency of Madhubani district, said, “The site’s protected status prevents the State government from undertaking development work there.”

Offering a grim picture of complete neglect, cattle and pigs are a common sight in the vast expanse of Balirajgarh. The lone pond under the protected area is filled with filth even as emaciated children and women, along with their buffaloes, bathe. According to locals, the pond never ever goes dry. The Hindu found village children playing cricket while preparations were on for the annual Chaiety Mela near a mound. There are over 20 such mounds under the protected site and whatever was dug earlier has been filled with soil, weeds and grass. “The fair is being organised every year for a long time now. Thousands of people visit it,” said Ram Kumar Mandal, the lone caretaker of the historical site.

The earlier boundary wall constructed at the site has crumbled and a new one has come up with iron rods on top. Repeated attempts for comment from ASI (Patna Circle) Superintending Archaeologist Hari Om Sharan failed to elicit any response.

“My only fear is that the allotted money for the excavation this time should not go to waste. There should be concrete results and findings this time,” said Phanikanta Mishra, former regional director of ASI (Eastern Zone).

Previous attempts

Archaeological findings from earlier digs point to a five-fold cultural sequence at the site, beginning with the Northern Black Polished Ware phase (circa 700–200 BCE) and continuing through the Sunga, Kushan, Gupta and Pala periods. This suggests continuous habitation from early historic to early medieval times.

According to ASI Director General Yaduvir Singh Rawat, the chronology may be the same but with each digging, there are chances of unearthing new layers of cultural fabric of the town. Around 20 trenches are proposed to be dug this time.

Retired professor of Archaeology, Patna University, Jaidev Mishra said, “If the work this time doesn’t reach its logical end, it will be a complete waste of money and time of the government.”

Mr. Jha hopes that this time the excavation will move beyond earlier limitations and provide a clearer, deeper account of the ancient settlement that still lies buried beneath the huge mounds of Balirajgarh.

Published – March 13, 2026 01:01 am IST