Kochi designer draws inspiration from indigenous theatre form Chavittunadakam for her Biennale pop-up

The Salt Studio pop-up in Fort Kochi, near Pepper House, is a dash of kitsch colours; on a sunny afternoon, it stands out like bright cotton candy. Inside, it is more a box of confections at the centre of which is a character out of a Chavittunadakam play named ‘the Coastal King’ with his glorious cape flying in the air.  This is Salt Studio founder Diya John’s way of paying homage to the dance-music-drama form that very few outside Kerala know of. 

An indigenous art form practised by the Latin Christian community in coastal Kochi over the past 500-odd years, it bears Portuguese and Kerala influences in equal measure. The costumes — the pattern and palette — are very different and far removed from the traditional Kerala performance art forms; the colours are brighter, the silhouettes exhibit distinct European influences. For Diya, though familiar with Chavittunadakam, it was a fascinating process.  

From the collection
| Photo Credit:
THULASI KAKKAT

“Even those of us in Kochi who have heard of it, may not have seen it on stage. We are familiar with references to it, but have we seen it performed?” she asks. That led her to a deep dive into Chavittunadakam, making discoveries along the way about its evolution, the different schools of the form, the lives of the artists, the stories and, of course, their costumes. 

Her research was not internet-based, instead she visited the artists’ homes in Chellanam, speaking to them and documenting the information along the way. “It is so fascinating, not just theatre, but how they sustain it, make time for it and have made it a way of their lives despite the challenges,” Diya says excitedly. One of her main sources was Britto Vincent, a Chavittunadakam expert and Sangeetha Nataka Akademi awardee; who also makes garments for the performances.  

One of the Chavittunadakam-inspired clay figurines by Helna Merin Joseph at Salt Studio
| Photo Credit:
THULASI KAKKAT

It was inevitable that she came away with a head full of ideas and inspiration. The research also led her to exploring textiles, which she got especially woven at Chendamangalam and cotton fabric sourced from the weaving hubs of Kannur. The silhouettes are as bold as the colours: tunics, dresses, pants and shirts.

Chavittunadakam as inspiration does not end with clothes, Diya commissioned paintings inspired by it, getting Vikalp Durga Mishra, of the paintings with large-eyed people, and clay figurines by UK-based artist Helna Merin Joseph (her works were on show in the last Biennale) with VJ Lalichan. All of which are on sale. The Coastal King, made with upcycled material like paper and cardboard, was done in collaboration with sculptor June Nazara and the Salt Studio team. The crown, which adorns, was made by George Joseph, who makes crowns for Chavittunadakam artists.

Upcycled fabric waste get a second life as totes
| Photo Credit:
THULASI KAKKAT

The sourcing of merchandise is intentional, with an accent on sustainability. Anuvad Innovation Studio’s hanging lamps are delightful  curiosities, touch one of the many bird motifs on the globular shades and you can hear birdsong. Touch a peacock and you hear one call! While most of the garments are Salt Studio, there are other garment and accessory labels like Innochi, Sirohi, World of Crow, Jaipur Rugs, Kaaro, and Taarika John.  

The pop-up runs through March 31