Beauty in red and white

“This temple is nothing like anything I have seen before, Amma. Look at the red-and-white paintings on the wall!” said Taran, his face brightening. They were at the Mahamaya temple in Ankola, Karnataka, a small, sleepy beachside town. He had been sulking when he heard his parents wanted to go temple trotting. His parents had said Ankola has some quiet beaches and good food, including the kari ishad mango. Trust his parents to squeeze in a temple visit.

“This is Kaavi art. It is said to have originated in Goa and spread to other regions of the Konkan coast. Also, it’s not a painting-painting. It’s an etching. First, there is a layer of lime plaster, then a layer of red oxide, which is ‘etched’ or carved to get the design,” explained Amma.

Layered art

Taran went up to get a closer look. Indeed, it was not a painting. “See, you can see the two layers distinctly. One is white, and the other is red,” Appa chimed in. “Kaavi actually refers to the reddish-brown colour in Konkani. It is said to be about 400-600 years old.”

“Wow, are these etchings about 500 years old? They look as good as new! Also, the designs are so intricate; dancers in different mudras, flowers and geometry.”

“Good catch, Taran. Kaavi is now a dying art form. Only seen in some temples and churches along the Konkan coast in Goa, Maharashtra, and Karnataka. When it was time to maintain these buildings, the murals sometimes got painted over because no one knows how to take care of Kaavi art.”

“Oh, that’s sad,” said Taran.

“But there’s a silver lining. There are a few artists who have made Kaavi art their life and livelihood and are restoring these murals. That’s why they look new!”

Inside the temple, a temple trustee asked them to look up at the ceiling. Amid the wooden beams was a sight to behold: the entire Dasavataram scene.

Taran beamed. “Do you think I can have Kaavi art on my bedroom wall? Maybe I can learn?”

“Haha, why not? But let’s start simple… I heard to keep up with the times, now you get Kaavi art in frames that you put up on walls or even — wait for it — on coasters and fridge magnets!

“Oooh! Let’s go looking for that.”

“What happened to beaches and food?” Amma smiled.

Taran smiled. “Everyone knows about the paintings on the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel by Michelangelo. But why is no one aware about Kaavi art? How is this any less beautiful?”

Appa put his arm around his son, “I am glad you are thinking this way. Now, let’s go see how we can support this art form; the beach can wait!”